Women in Hospitality: A Conversation with Branka Novakovik

A scenic view from the reception area

Situated on the eastern side of the Gulf of Thailand, just an hour plane ride from Bangkok, lays the picturesque island of Koh Samui. Boasting over 700 hotels and resorts, the local community is no stranger to tourists of all nationalities. My home for the week was a quaint Air BNB on a hillside that can be yours too for only $60 a night, which is unbelievable considering how much more I’ve paid for a hotel room in America that was most likely a crime scene at one point.

On the other side of the island (and just slightly out of our budget) is the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui. After discovering this, I immediately jumped at the chance to introduce myself to their Director of Restaurants and Bars. By some stroke of luck, I was able to secure a meeting with Branka Novakovic-who is perhaps one of the coolest people I’ve ever met in my life.

Battling car sickness due to a questionable dining choice (being epicurious is not always a good thing), we roll into the Four Seasons in the cheapest taxi we could find. I’m immediately rendered speechless. I’ve visited a good amount of high end hotels in my career, but this one is something special. It’s obvious from our arrival that this establishment is the best of the best. I feel like Bella Hadid as I’m escorted to the restaurant on a private golf cart. 

As soon as I’m greeted by Branka, I know we’re about to get along very well. She leads me through an open-air room with dark wooden tables and a panoramic view of the verdant foliage lining the beach. I wish I had a more poetic way of describing the water, but it is the exact same color as a Cool Blue flavored Gatorade. From this vantage point we can see the tropical landscape stretching out in every direction, embracing the water with its intricate coves.

Introductions are made and coffee is served. Like any young professional in my position, I’ve come prepared with a list of questions. I’m nervous because of the prestige of Branka’s position. She laughs when I apologize for my absence of business professional attire, understanding the chaos of full time travel. Full of humility and empathy, she begins to tell us of her background. Something to note about Branka, she is quite the explorer. Growing up in Croatia, she was forced to relocate because of the war. For 14 years, she worked extensively in restaurants and resorts in locations such as Serbia, Greece, Montenegro, the Maldives, and even Hoboken, if you can believe it. Now celebrating five years with the Four Seasons, she has worked her way up to the Director of Restaurants and Bars at this exclusive resort on Koh Samui.

Koh Samui is a particularly interesting Thai island because of its uniquely impressive infrastructure to support its many resorts. With 75 units here, guests have a plethora of options to choose from. These include villas with infinity pools overlooking the beach, as many as five bedrooms, and even bathtubs in front of a window-the epitome of luxury, if you ask me.

Although incredibly sophisticated, the Four Seasons is a perfect location for those traveling with children. There’s an abundance of activities offered, rain or shine. Today it looks like the options include coconut shell painting, gel candle making, paper maché, and s’mores on the beach. I personally have no desire to bring a child on vacation with me, but it’s good to know that if I did they’d be entertained while I enjoy a tasting at the Rum Vault. In addition to this unique tasting experience, the resort also includes two restaurants. Koh Thai Kitchen, which happens to be the location of our rendez-vous, offers the best of southern Thai cuisine. Just a short golf-cart ride down the hill is Pla Pla, which serves fresh seafood right by the ocean.

It’s easy to see that Branka has her work cut out for her, so I take this opportunity to inquire on the intricacies of the job and what she’s learned after her years of experience. She starts by explaining the high expectations that come with this group of clientele. She advises us, “The best policy is to be honest and straight forward. Guests here are so well traveled they’ll know the difference.” For many guests, this is not their first experience at a five-star resort. It’s any employee’s responsibility to be incredibly knowledgeable on everything offered. This makes me wonder exactly how recruitment works. Branka is quick to ensure that the Four Seasons is “hiring attitude and a willingness to learn-not just experience or previous knowledge.” She continues, emphasizing the importance of a solid team- “You need to know who you’re going to work and grow with…”

When it comes to challenges, Branka elaborates on the necessity for an adaptable leadership style. Managing a team of pre-existing and new employees proves to be difficult at times. However, with proper selection and onboarding program, a diverse and powerful team can be created. Going off that point, Branka stresses that she has to have an exceptionally well prepared second in command. Earlier in our meeting we’d laughed over the uncertainty and mayhem that comes with this job. To put it simply: anything can happen. And when it does happen, it’s important to have a supportive and competent team behind you.

We agree that the same can be said about our personal lives as well. Jobs in the service industry are emotionally and physically taxing, whether you’re working at McDonald’s or The French Laundry. You can have all the external support in the world, but what good is it if you aren’t prioritizing yourself? “Keep a part of yourself for you,” Branka advises. “Be slow outside of work.” This specific sentiment really resonates with me. I explain to her how I have trouble sometimes balancing the aspects of my professional and personal life. Sometimes I feel a sense of guilt when I have a Saturday off and choose to become a reclusive shrew instead of answering emails or texts. I’m again reminded by Branka of the value in just being present and taking things slow outside of work. She suggests ensuring you have a proper amount of days off, engaging in activities like yoga, and expressing gratitude everyday “so you don’t get lost in the process of life.” 

We go on to discuss the importance of travel and even bond over our admiration of Anthony Bourdain. Branka has read all of his books, which makes perfect sense. She harkens back to some of his most impactful philosophies: “Everyone has a bias, and traveling breaks this bias…you’re never the same person after you travel.” We’re reminded that Branka has to attend a meeting, which sadly means our time is up. Even just 45 minutes with her has reassured me of my own strengths and inspired me to push past whatever obstacles stand in my way. We agree on many things, but most importantly we acknowledge the uncertainty of life and the inevitable challenges that come with being a woman who’s not afraid to do what makes her happy. To Branka and The Four Seasons Koh Samui: thank you so much for this opportunity to learn and grow. And to everyone else: remember to not get lost in the process of life and visit Thailand if you ever have the chance; you won’t regret it.

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